Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
[quote=dieseldoc;323759]Something not tough any more, WAKE THE BOLT UP[/quote]
I did try this before turning the screw. Gave each one several solid raps. Obviously didn't do enough for this screw, but I was concerned about hitting too hard next to my window and windshield. Also, Chrysler made this extra challenging by putting blue Loc-Tite on the threads of these screws. I'm having to fight the thread locker and 12 years of potential rust / galvanic corrosion / etc. What a pain in the butt.
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
[quote=Patrolman;323731]it is out, drill out the rest of the head so you can remove the bracket. Then you can hopefully apply good penetrant and hopefully remove the rest of the screw by grabbing what remains with some vise grips.[/quote]
I am with Jeff here: do what it takes to get the extractor bit out - I would probably go the dremel grinding route. You could even grind the entire head off (I first bought my dremel 20+ yrs ago needing to grind the head of a CJ7 steering box bolt that was stuck and I trashed) - then the bracket should come off and you can work with what is left. Hopefully a decent amount of thread will be sticking out that can be worked with more easily - either vice grips, welding a nut to it, etc. I would also then try to head up the threads - it helps loosen the loc-tite. There is also a product called 'freeze off' (or something like that - comes in a blue spray can). It helps shock the item and loosens it up. Plus then any light scuffing or damage to the surface would be hidden under the bracket when its put back on.
I have fought a number of stuck bolts and twisted off heads, rounded out screw heads etc - usually comes with the territory on rusty old jeeps. Someone once told me it was 'character building' (not that I believe that). For future reference, as Brian mentioned above - especially for screw heads (allen, torx, phillips etc) - an manual impact screwdriver goes a long way and helps avoid the situation entirely, especially if you put some pre-treatment penetrating oil, shock, heat, freeze off etc on it first. I've got a rounded out, recessed allen head drain plug on the front diff of the tacoma - its probably never coming out - l just change the fluid now by pumping the oil out and refilling. Good luck!
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
I'll try grinding the bit out as I get time this week. I'm not sure what you guys are referring to with brackets, though. The screw I'm trying to remove is on the body panel in front of my door. If I remove the remaining (munged-up) screw head, I will be left with a screw shank stuck in a countersunk hole in the body panel of the Jeep. I'll never be able to get any pliers or vice grips onto the shank, recessed as it is. I think if I remove some of the head, I will be able to force some more PB blaster into the threads, though. There is very little gap between the screw head and the countersunk bore right now, so it doesn't seem like much of the PB blaster can work into the threads.
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
[quote=open_circuit;323774]I'm not sure what you guys are referring to with brackets, though. The screw I'm trying to remove is on the body panel[/quote]
ok - was wondering if I didn't quite understand. that is going to make it more difficult. Think I would go the grind it out route still - probably have to grind the whole damn thing out. You might have to then drill and re-tap the threads a size or two larger and put in a heli-coil. Simple project that goes FUBAR - gotta be a jeep thing!
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
I also noticed on some of the JKs in the parking lot here at work the last few mornings that Jeep went away from countersunk screws for these locations on at least some JK models. The ones I saw outside have pan-head screws that sit above the body instead of countersunk below the body panel. Would be very nice to have that on the LJ so I could at least cut a proper slot into the head. *Sigh*
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
Yup they change to full pan heads after 2012.
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
[QUOTE=FINOCJ;323775]ok - was wondering if I didn't quite understand. that is going to make it more difficult.[/QUOTE]
Upon closer inspection, I may be able to remove that body panel piece after grinding away the screw head. There are 4 screws total on that body panel piece. Two screws are in front of the Jeep under the windshield, and two are on the side in front of the door. The body panel piece appears to be a small lower retaining section that is attached to the windshield hinge and the door hinge.
In other words, if I can get the two front screws out without any excitement, I might be able to remove the door, grind the head off the munged up screw, then tilt the panel up out of the way (hinged on the bottom of windshield) to get access to the bolt stub.
I think I'll keep that as a last-ditch plan, since it still requires me to remove two more screws that I never wanted to touch, and could mess up as well.
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
I'd pick up a bit like this from Home Depot or Lowes etc: [URL]https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/tools/9901-tungsten-carbide-cutter[/URL]
and put it into the slots you already cut in the head on about the same angle as the bottom of the head and cut down to the bracket, then cut / break the rest of the bolt head off. If you've never used one of those bits before its surprising how easily they chew up bolts and surrounding metal. Even if you damage the hole in the bracket you can replace the bolt with a hex head / washer to compensate.
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
Put a piece of tape on the paint surrounding the bolt head. If the burr gets away from you, you'll have [I]some[/I] protection, which is better than none.
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
[QUOTE=Hypoid;323794]Put a piece of tape on the paint surrounding the bolt head. If the burr gets away from you, you'll have [I]some[/I] protection, which is better than none.[/QUOTE]
I guess we think alike. I put a few layers of masking tape over the hole and covered several inches all around it. I punched out the work area, and now have at least some semblance of protection for the rest of the paint.
I made a little progress on the broken off bit tonight. The bit I bought would work a lot better if I didn't have to use it as an end-mill.
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
[quote=open_circuit;323796]The bit I bought would work a lot better if I didn't have to use it as an end-mill.[/quote]
`don't know what type of bit you have, but I used generic things like this that came in my kit:
[img]https://www.dremel.com/productimages/x84922lg.jpg.pagespeed.ic.uo5-PvvABx.jpg[/img]
[url]https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/84922-3-16-silicon-carbide-grinding-stones[/url]
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
I bought one like Paul linked. Will probably get one of those grinding stones too.
The bit I bought does have a rounded head with some shallow teeth, but it doesn't work very well on the tip.
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
Thanks everyone for the advice. I finally extracted the screw this morning. I spent probably 10 hours this week on this stupid screw, as well as more money on extraction tools than on the original mirror kit. It's a Jeep thing?
Anyway, I was able to remove most of the hardened steel extraction bit that was broken off in the screw shank with a combination of three different Dremel bits. This is what took most of the time. I used a grinding stone conical bit, a cylindrical chainsaw sharpening bit, and a silicon-carbide grinding bit to chip away at the hardened steel.
[IMG]http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47321&d=1526838748[/IMG]
I only succeeded in removing the screw after I (finally) picked up a torch and brought some heat to the project. The screw wouldn't turn with an extraction bit, even after heating it up for a while, but I was able to snap the head off with my center-punch and a flat-head bit used like a chisel while the screw was hot. This proved to be the key to getting the shank out. With the head gone, I was able to use the speed-out bits that I bought last Sunday. These didn't work last week, but without the screw head stuck to the body and some heat to loosen the shank, the troublesome pieces came out in about 60 seconds after I popped the head off the screw.
[IMG]http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47319&d=1526838748[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47318&d=1526838748[/IMG]
And here it is, all finished. I don't know why my grey front seat covers look a little purple in this photo.
[IMG]http://www.frontrange4x4.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47320&d=1526838748[/IMG]
I'm going to get a beer this afternoon and enjoy not cursing at this screw for a while.
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
Life 101 - Graduation Day.
Good times.
Enjoy the no door world
Thx for the wrap-up!
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
Trent 1 Screw 0. I might go do an easy trail in the same area next Sunday if your interested.
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
[quote=Taco Chris;323894]Trent 1 Screw 0. I might go do an easy trail in the same area next Sunday if your interested.[/quote]
Definitely interested in getting out next weekend. Looking for some sun and warm temps to keep the doors off. This weekend was not very good for that.
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
glad it came out. seems it was the pan of said bolt that was the issue.
enjoy the wide open no doors world.
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
Re: stuck screw extraction nightmare
I appreciate your determination but next time just weld a nut to it and it'll spin right out. The heat will cause the bolt to expand breaking the bond under the head and removing the tension that the bolt is under. Assuming the threads are free of dirt/mud it'll spin right out. The larger size nut also gives you plenty of purchase so you don't strip it. I have some easy outs but cant remember the last time I used them, bolt won't budge, out comes the welder.