Lift for a Isuzu? [Archive] - Front Range 4x4 Forums

Haku

August 16th, 2009, 10:11 PM

I believe those are IFS right? While there probably aren't many, if any, kits made for lifting those, you can pretty much treat it like a Toyota Pickup, and use the same kind of modifications. You'll probably have to make some modifications to stuff, but the leaf springs and such should swap over relatively easily. Want to give us details about what it comes like stock, i.e. IFS, Leaf Springs, Coils, Spring Over or Under if its leaf sprung, that kind of thing? I've never poked around under those, but shouldn't be too hard to figure something out. If its Solid Axle Front and Rear, the easiest lift you can do is a Spring Over conversion, which just takes welding a new spring perch on top of the axle instead of under it. The hard part comes when its IFS, since that usually means replacing coils, or doing an SAS if you want to go with something more then a couple inches. Coil spacers would do the job, but it may or may not be easy to find depending on whats in there now and if you can adapt it from another rig.

JH

Haku

August 16th, 2009, 10:41 PM

Looks like a couple people do make lift kits, and yes, it is Torsion Bar based. Here are some links for ya....

Independent4x-

Lift Kit- https://www.independent4x.com/merchantmanager/index.php?cPath=1_12_22_134

Solid Axle Swap Kit Stuff - https://www.independent4x.com/merchantmanager/index.php?cPath=1_12_122

Calmini - http://www.pureisuzu.com/pickup.htm

Looks like it will be about a grand for a 3" lift or so, that retains the IFS Torsion bar setup. For a bit more total cost, it looks like you could do a SAS with one of Independen4x's kits for less then $2g's (all told including axles and everyting) using their kit, which looks like it comes with everything except the axle. Looks like a Dana 44 Wagoneer axle fits great under there, and matches well with the rear axle that comes with the rig. Sky is the limit once you get the solid axle under there, as you can go so many different ways and spend as much money as you want. Might be worth linking it right off the bat if you ever plan on it, but it really depends on what you want the thing to do. There is an Isuzu section on www.pirate4x4.com (http://www.pirate4x4.com) (sorry for posting a competing forum Chris) that you can find some info, though not a whole lot. Should be a fun project though.

JH

Patrolman

August 17th, 2009, 09:35 AM

With the torsion bars, the cheap way, as I can attest, is to crank the bars up a bit in the front. Maybe even get some stiffer bars to take the crank.

The rear of course can be add-a-leaf, or a longer shackle. Either is a cheap lift. Neither has a great ride and the springs are likely to sag back over time, but a combo of both might hold the lift better.

Brody

August 17th, 2009, 09:44 AM

What Jeff said and this is basically what you do to get a lift from an IFS Toyota without spending a bundle.

Before I did my SAS swap, I ran this setup on my Yota for a couple of years and didn't experience a major difference in ride quality, though the key word here is 'major'. It will ride stiffer.

As far as a lift, especially an after market lift for an Isuzu, there really isn't much available. You might see what is in the Isuzu section of the make and model links as I posted what I could find and maybe someone else added to that.

Most people lifting an Isuzu, especially doing something like an SAS, have to go with a different front and rear axle combo, though you may very well have a Dana 44 in the rear of yours. You can also use what the Yotas use as the basic platform is going to be the same. My thought is that you could easily adapt an after market lift from a same style(ie: springs/coils/IFS-whatever you have underneath it) Yota to work, too.

Happy to help if you decide to do this and also happy to do a little research fro you if you have questions.

KnuckleHead

August 17th, 2009, 07:26 PM

I did do a little more homework after posting this and did see the lift kits that a couple companies are selling. I also read up on doing the torsion bars. right now that seems to be the way to go, at least for now. Basically all I want to do is get some 33s under it.
Here are some specs - 3.1L v6 IFS up front and leaf springs in the rear gearing... 4.55 front and 4.30 rear ... stock .... 31x10.50x15 stock ... seems like it will make for a good little trail rig .... just need it a little taller...

Patrolman

August 17th, 2009, 07:37 PM

Different gear ratios? Also, we need pics. ;)

KnuckleHead

August 17th, 2009, 07:42 PM

As for the gears.... thats what the "owners manual says" .... I will post a couple pics later tonight as I am at work right now.... Can I rn 33s with that gear set up?

Patrolman

August 17th, 2009, 08:01 PM

I would just run the 33's and worry about the gears later. They will likely work well enough for most needs. I run 33's and 4.30's on my Toyota with a 4 cylinder.

KnuckleHead

August 17th, 2009, 11:32 PM

The 1st pic is I first got it.... 2nd after a couple things I put on and went through a mud hole... I was thinking of that ( just run 33s ) but need to lift it first...

Haku

August 18th, 2009, 12:01 AM

I agree you'll need to lift it to fit 33's, but only a bit. Sounds like the torsion bar tweak should do it. Might have to do a bit of fender beating/trimming, but shouldn't be too bad. Should be a fun trail rig, and has a lot of potential.

JH

Funrover

August 18th, 2009, 07:00 AM

looks like a fun little rig

Roostercruiser

August 18th, 2009, 09:20 AM

welcome back Happy:thunb: how are you and are things better?

KnuckleHead

August 18th, 2009, 06:11 PM

welcome back Happy:thunb: how are you and are things better?

Thanks.... yeah things seem to be getting a little better... as you can see I picked up a new 4x4.... seems to be like it just might be a good little trail rig... I'm waiting to get some tires and then take it on a mild trail to break it in....

Patrolman

August 18th, 2009, 06:38 PM

Let me know if you need help with the lift and the torsion bars. It is easy to do. I don't mind. Good to see you around again and that things are looking up.

KnuckleHead

August 18th, 2009, 06:57 PM

Let me know if you need help with the lift and the torsion bars. It is easy to do. I don't mind. Good to see you around again and that things are looking up.

Thank you for the offer... when I'm ready I will for sure take you up on it.... Id rather someone that knows what they are doing do it as I help and learn....
Glad to be around again.... was starting to drive me crazy... I cant wait to get out there on a trail again..

Haku

August 18th, 2009, 06:59 PM

You should definitely come on the Stockers without Lockers trip. Would be a great one to break it in and find out whats its capable of.

JH

KnuckleHead

August 19th, 2009, 04:11 AM

You should definitely come on the Stockers without Lockers trip. Would be a great one to break it in and find out whats its capable of.

JH

Ill have to check and see what is planed if anything for that Saterday..... How far is the trail from Denver? God knows I'm ready for a run.. I'm still a newbie at this and would love to get out more to get some experince...

Brody

August 19th, 2009, 04:35 AM

Ill have to check and see what is planed if anything for that Saterday..... How far is the trail from Denver? God knows I'm ready for a run.. I'm still a newbie at this and would love to get out more to get some experince...

The trails they are talking about doing(Webster/Red Cone, etc.) are about 45 minutes from the C470/Hwy 285 intersection. Add another 25 minutes or so from Aurora. Your best bet is to take Hampden straight west as it seems to be faster than anything else.

If the trails haven't changed, you just follow Hwy 285(Hampden) through Aspen Park, Conifer, and Bailey, turning off just before you start the climb up Kenosha Pass.

KnuckleHead

August 19th, 2009, 12:35 PM

Thats not bad at all... come to think about it some friends and I went up that way last Saterday shooting... Not sure exactlly where it was but up that way.... I will tray and make it...

KnuckleHead

August 22nd, 2009, 05:10 PM

just found out that I have to work next Saterday the 29th so no Stocker run... but will be at the trail clean up.... I'm also planing on getting my body lift sometime next week ... I'm thinking I will need some help putting in on and doing the torrison bars.... Brody or Patrolman... think you might beable to lend a had or 2?

Patrolman

August 22nd, 2009, 05:18 PM

The body lifts are easy to do, especially on a truck. Hardest part is the steering if it needs an extension/adjustment. Just use a floor jack with a 2x4 or 6x6 or 8x8 under one side of the body to lift it off the mounts. First you have to loosen all the bolts and remove ONLY the bolts on the starting side. Then do the lift on that side. Gently drop it back down and put the longer bolts in, but leave them a bit loose. Then do the same on the other side. Proceed to tightening down all the bolts. Only other issue is the radiator to make sure the mechanical fan doesn't hit the shroud if applicable.

In regards to the torsion bars, all you need to do is adjust them. Just a matter of jacking up each side and turning a bolt/nut. Of course, once you raise the front, you want a plan for the rear, or you will be sitting nose end up. If you want to stop by and do the torsion bars, I can certainly help as long as my schedule is open.

KnuckleHead

August 23rd, 2009, 03:14 AM

Thanks for the tid bit of info on the body lift.... Will I need to extend any wireing or hoses? (rad or bat) As for the torsion bars .... I see the bolt that you talk about and read that you have to get an alignment after you do this...is that true? As far as nose up and rear down... well as it sits now I'm nose down. Thinking if I can get it more leavel then that would be better...?
Thanks for the offer on the help....

Patrolman

August 23rd, 2009, 01:57 PM

I wouldn't recommend anything larger than 2" on a body lift. Generally with the cab, there won't be any problems. The radiator will likely have brackets that drop it within the front bodywork if you use a kit. If not, the brackets are easy to make. Then the radiator remains level with the motor and cools nicely still. The biggest issue can be the fuel filler hose when you lift the bed. Even getting the bed lifted can be a hassle depending on the bolts used. Otherwise straight forward.

I have never gotten an alignment after doing torsion bars on the Toyota's. They have dual A-arms up front, with the bars in the top arm. Since everything stays "in alignment" and just gets budged up an inch or so, there is no logical need to re-align. Just make sure that you have locking hubs. If not, the CV"s spin all the time and will wear faster at the more extreme angle.

KnuckleHead

September 8th, 2009, 11:56 PM

Well I was off today and decided to tackle the torsion bar lift.... it went from ruffly 33in to 35 1/4.... good 2 1/4in higher.... now I just need to do a shackle kit in the rear....

Brody

September 9th, 2009, 05:18 AM

Nice! A little bit of a PITA depending on how rusted or bound up stuff is underneath, but an otherwise easy way to gain some height. Some people will say "Oh, you will hate the ride", but the only thing I noticed on mine was a little more stiffness...basically no big deal.

Since it is an IFS, you may very well want to get it re aligned as you have changed the caster/camber...

KnuckleHead

September 10th, 2009, 04:03 AM

It really wasnt that bad... there was more dirt than anything... I started doing by hand then hit it with the impact.... impact was alot better... As for the ride, it seems softer not harder. I now glide over dips and bumps, before it was a ruff ride... I plan on doing the shackles this weekend.

KnuckleHead

September 20th, 2009, 01:16 PM

KnuckleHead

October 3rd, 2009, 12:41 AM

Went up and did a little trail run today to break in the new toy.....

WINKY

October 3rd, 2009, 05:20 AM

nice three wheel, now turn around and do it the other way..... like this guy did... (not sure who it is...?)

http://i482.photobucket.com/albums/rr189/randyrandy77/cleanup%20run/CIMG2239.jpg

Brody

October 3rd, 2009, 07:38 AM

Well I did the rear Shackles this past week and gained 2" in the rear. I think it moved the angle of my drive line cause now I have a slight vibration from 1st to 2nd at about 10mph. I went to 4wheel parts Friday and they said all I need to do is drop my carrier bearing down about 1/2"...? I also picked up a roll bar for the bed for $20 off CL

If I can stick my nose in here and offer an suggestion or two:

You do not need or want to lower your carrier bearing down. Don't know who at 4Wheel Parts told you this, but they don't know Yotas very well. This is a very dumb thing to do and to suggest as it will only increase your driveline vibration.

What you need to do is to simply add some degreed shims between your axle and the springs, turning up the pinion a little towards the underside of the truck. Do not get the cheap aluminum shims, but get the steel shims, probably the 6 degree ones, judging from the length of the shackles you put on. I have a set of steel 6 degree shims you are more than welcome to if you you want them.

The second thing you are going to want to do is weld up a brace or plate somewhere in the middle of each rear shackle. You will bend the shackles they way they are now. Simple fix and it will stop any problems before they start...The way these shackles are designed they do give you lift, but put too much twisting torque on the spring hangers on the frame without the cross brace.

Patrolman

October 3rd, 2009, 09:19 AM

What you need to do is to simply add some degreed shims between your axle and the springs, turning up the pinion a little towards the underside of the truck. Do not get the cheap aluminum shims, but get the steel shims, probably the 6 degree ones, judging from the length of the shackles you put on. I have a set of steel 6 degree shims you are more than welcome to if you you want them.

The second thing you are going to want to do is weld up a brace or plate somewhere in the middle of each rear shackle. You will bend the shackles they way they are now. Simple fix and it will stop any problems before they start...The way these shackles are designed they do give you lift, but put too much twisting torque on the spring hangers on the frame without the cross brace.

Agreed... Shims and make sure the shackles are strong enough. I have seen bent shackles before. Not a pretty picture.

What I can say about this build, is you are showing that it can be done on the cheap and simple! Nothing showy, just all purpose built!

KnuckleHead

October 5th, 2009, 03:47 AM

Thank you for the advice. I got the same talk Saturday and the Wheeler lake run. I was told a few times that the shackles were twisting really good a few times. I did a little looking around and found that they make a 2" lift shackle for my truck. The ones I have on now are just some $20 ones from AutoZone. They are thick and feel strong, I think 1/4"....? Should I keep those and weld the brace or go for the other ones? They ones I found are $60.

Brody::: How much do you want for the shims? Will they work on my truck? Also I don't know how to do the turning up of the pinion. Do you think you might beable to give me hand at doing it and what would the cost be?

Haku

October 5th, 2009, 10:26 AM

I don't think you need to necessarily get rid of the shackles that are on there now, just modify them slightly. I think adding a bar in the center will significantly decrease the swaying movement you are getting right now. Something like this....

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Images/ShackleBraced.jpg

Also, Dave's Offroad sells shackles designed to minimize death wobble (the wandering of the axle, usually caused by swaying shackles on the front axle). The actual shackles is pretty standard fair, but has an added spacer that clamps down on the bushing sleeve. This minimizes the swaying of the shackle since its so tightly clamped down. I imagine you can do much the same thing with some washers, or it should be relatively easy to find similar spacers. Here is a picture of that.

http://www.davezoffroadperformance.com/forum/download/file.php?id=2332

Just a few easy and cheap ideas to make it a bit stronger and more stable.

JH

Patrolman

October 5th, 2009, 01:15 PM

Yeah, personally I would weld a brace in these to start with. See what that gets you. You already have them purchased and installed, so no harm in trying.

KnuckleHead

October 8th, 2009, 01:33 AM

nice three wheel, now turn around and do it the other way..... like this guy did... (not sure who it is...?)

http://i482.photobucket.com/albums/rr189/randyrandy77/cleanup%20run/CIMG2239.jpg

Thanks..... I most def will, just when I have others with me. I was out on my own that day and thought I would just play it safe.....

WINKY

October 8th, 2009, 02:33 AM

oh yeah, when others are there :)

KnuckleHead

November 19th, 2009, 03:59 AM

Need some opinions on which of these I should upgrade to....

Haku

November 19th, 2009, 07:10 AM

They all look kinda chintzy if I'm honest. I've heard nothing but good reviews about the RoundEyes one, and they look to be about the same dimensions. Check it out....

http://www.roundeyes.com/Toyota_Headlamps-Rectangular_Toyota_Conversion_Headlamps.html

They look a bit larger then 5x7 actually, but about the same size. Almost any of the ones with projector housing that are aftermarket (and still cheap) aren't really worth looking at. Did you break one, or are you just looking to upgrade? These ones have great optics, and replace the sealed housing that most trucks use. They are also polycarbonate, so they are more resistant to breaking offroad. Hella also makes a good replacement lense, but its a bit more spendy I think, and from reviews, these are better.

JH

KnuckleHead

November 20th, 2009, 12:03 AM

JeffX

November 20th, 2009, 06:27 AM

Nice work!

Medic-5150

November 20th, 2009, 09:30 AM

nice three wheel, now turn around and do it the other way..... like this guy did... (not sure who it is...?)

http://i482.photobucket.com/albums/rr189/randyrandy77/cleanup%20run/CIMG2239.jpg

That looks an awful lot like Brutus....Looks like you got one too many lard cakes warming ont he engine though...

Haku

November 20th, 2009, 09:43 AM

I have the sealed beams right now as always they suck.... I did the conversion to my old Ranger and loved how much more light they put out. So I'm looking to upgrade but without killing my pocket. I wasn't really sure if the Projector style was even worth it or not.... that's why I posted here for input. I really don't have the money to waist for crap you know.

I can't say for sure since I haven't seen the ones you posted in person, but in general, the aftermarket projector housing ones tend to be cheap, and the light output is no good.

Those Roundeye (they make square housings too now, so ignore the name) ones have a replaceable bulb and are not a sealed housing. I've even seen a few people put HID lights in them, and they aren't horrible. Still some scattered light (why that happens is a whole another discussion) but not bad. With a slightly brighter halogen bulb, these are a huge upgrade. Like I said before, Hella makes a decent housing too, but its a bit more spendy.

Ever get those bars welded into the shackles?

JH